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MJ LUXURY
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Kinds of Leathers
ALLIGATOR - Alligator, crocodile, caiman,
gavial and related types.
BOVINE - A cow, ox, or closely related animal.
BUCKSKIN - Deer and elk skins, having the outer grain
removed.
BULLHIDE - Hide from a male bovine, capable of reproduction.
CABRETTA - A hair-type sheepskin; specifically those from
Brazil.
CALFSKIN - Skin from a young bovine, male or female.
CAPESKIN - Skin from a sheep raised in South America.
CARPINCHO - A water rodent native to South America; like
pigskin.
CATTLEHIDE - General term for hides before tanning from a
bovine of any breed or sex, but usually mature; includes
bullhide, steerhide, cowhide and sometimes kipskins.
CORDOVAN - From a section of a hide called the shell.
COWHIDE - Hide from a mature female bovine that has produced
a calf.
DEERSKIN - Deer and elk skins having the grain intact.
DOESKIN - From sheep or lambskins, usually with the grain
removed.
FLESHER - The underneath (flesh side) layer of a sheepskin
which has been split off. Used to make chamois.
GOATSKIN - Skin from a mature goat.
HAIR SHEEP - Sheep from several species whose "wool" is
hair-like.
HEIFER - A female bovine, under three years of age, that has
not produced a calf.
HIDE - The whole pelt from large animals (cattle, horses,
etc.).
HORSEHIDE - Hide from a horse or colt.
KANGAROO - From the Australian kangaroo or wallaby.
KIDSKIN - Skin from a lamb, or young sheep.
KIPSKIN - Skin from a bovine, male or female, intermediate
in size between a calf and mature. LAMBSKIN - Skin from a
lamb or young sheep.
LIZARD - Any of a great number of the lizard family (iguana,
varanus, monitor lizard).
MOCHA - Middle-East hair sheep, usually with the grain
removed.
OSTRICH - From the two-legged animal native to North Africa.
PECCARY - From a wild boar native to Central and South
America; like pigskin.
PELT - An untanned hide or skin with the hair on.
PIGSKIN - Skin from pigs and hogs.
RAWHIDE - Untanned skins or hide.
RAWSTOCK - General term for hides or skins that a tanner has
received in a preserved state, prepatory to tanning; a
tanner's inventory of raw material.
SHARKSKIN - From certain of the shark species.
SHEARLING - Wooled sheep and lambskins, tanned with the wool
intact.
SHEEPSKIN - Skin from a mature sheep.
SKIN - The pelt from small animals (calf, sheep, goat,
etc.).
SKIVER - The thin grain layer split from a sheepskin.
SNAKE - Any of a number of the snake species (python,
anaconda, cobra,
karung, viper, etc).
STEERHIDE - Hide from a mature male bovine, incapable of
reproduction, having been raised for beef.
WALRUS - Skin from a walrus; also, sometimes sealskin.
WATERBUFFALO - Flathorned buffalo, primarily from the
tropics
The Material
Skin - Skin of small animal such as sheep, goat, pig, etc
Hide - Skin of large animal such as cow, buffalo, etc
Definitions
Suede - Produced from the flesh surface, or from an inner
surface exposed by splitting the hide, or by abrasion of the
grain surface
Nubuck - A very fine suede effect produced by abrasion of
the grain surface
Laminated leather - Has a coating greater than one third of
the total thickness, but less than half
Coated leather - Has a finish greater than 0.15mm and less
than one third of the total thickness
Leather - Has a finish less than 0.15mm thick
Skin Areas
Butt - The part from the back of the animal which produces
the best leather
Belly - Thinner, softer, more stretchy area from the belly
of the animal
Neck - Often shows wrinkles
Axilla - Thin stretchy areas between the legs - usually has
a coarser grain pattern
Surfaces
Grain - The outer surface of the hide or skin
Flesh - The inner surface of the hide or skin
Stages of Leather Manufacture
Preservation - Preventing deterioration of the skin or hide
until the tanner is ready to convert it into leather.
Methods include salting and/or chilling
Drying - Makes the raw hide or skin unappetising to
bacteria. Dry skins keep indefinitely
Salting - Addition of salt helps the skin to dry more
quickly and wet back more easily
Soaking - Treatment with water to clean the skin and get it
back to its original condition
Liming - Treatment with lime and sodium sulphide to remove
hair
Deliming - Returns the skin from strong alkalinity towards
neutrality
Bating - Enzyme treatment to clean inside of skin and help
give soft leather
Pickling - Treatment with sulphuric acid & salt - a
preparation for tannage, but also a preservative -many
sheepskins are sent around the world in this state
Tannage - Conversion of the skin or hide into leather - the
raw skin will putrefy, but the tanned leather will not
Vegetable tanning - Uses bark and wood extracts to give a
brown coloured leather used mainly for shoe soles and
leathergoods
Chrome tanning - Uses chrome salts to give a pale blue
leather which is more resistant to heat - used for clothing,
shoe upper and industrial leathers
Oil tanning - Limited to 'chamois' tanning - gives a very
soft, water absorbent leather
Dyeing - Colouring by means of soluble dyes
Fatliquoring - Introduction of oils in an emulsion form
Finishing - Application of surface coatings for protection,
colour and resistance to rubbing, flexing and fading
terms and vocabulary skinner (tanner, dresser, skinner,
currier)
ALTERED LEATHER - Leather that has had the original surface
of the skin or hide removed, (usually due to imperfections
in the original grain surface), and a new grain embossed
into the leather. This is also called corrected grain. Most
top-grain leathers have altered or corrected grain.
ANILINE - The name given to the particular transparent dye
used to color dyed leather.
ANILINE LEATHER - Leather that has been dyed through with
aniline dyes. Pure aniline leathers represent approximately
5 percent of all upholstery leathers produced worldwide.
Sometimes topped with a protein, resin, or lacquer
protective coating; can also be waxed.
BARK TANNED - See "Vegetable Tanned"
BASEBALL LEATHER -Leather used for the covers of baseballs.
Prior to 1974 baseballs are covered in cowhide; today
quality baseballs are covered in alumtanned horsehide.
BELTING LEATHER -The vegetable-tanned leather used in the
construction of furniture and other strength-related
requirements.
BLUE, IN THE -The state of hides or animals being "chrome"
tanned after they have been removed from the tanning
solution. Chromium salts cause the tanned hides to be light
blue before they are dyed.
BOARDED LEATHER -Leather softened by creasing the grain by
folding to and fro across the hide, either by hand or
boarding machine.
BOAR DY -An adjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather.
This term is not to be confused with boarding, which is the
process of softening leather.
BRUSH COLORED -The application of dyestuff to leather with a
brush, the leather being laid on a table.
BUFFED - Leather which has been abrased or sueded. This can
also be referred to as snuffed, nubuck leather, or
grain-sueded leather.
CASE LEATHERING -A general term for leather used in
travelling bags and suitcases. The staple material for case
leather is bovine hides.
CENTER CUT SUEDE -A suede split that has had the edges
trimmed to leave the bends and the shoulder, leaving the
best and most usable part, or the center of the material.
CHROME TANNAGE - Leather tanned in chromium salts, primarily
basic chromium sulphate resulting in soft, mellow hides
receptive to excellent colour variety. Currently the most
widely used tannage in the USA.
COMBINATION TANNAGE - Leathers tanned with more than one
tanning agent, such as chrome and vegetable together,
resulting in both softness and body in skins.
CORDOVAN - Leather made from the tight, firm shell portion
of horse butts. Cordovan has very fine pores and a
characteristic finish, and is very durable.
CORRECTED GRAIN -The outside skin is sanded or abraded to
minimise faults. It is then pigmented to cover the sanding
and printed with an artificial grain. A spray sealer topcoat
is then applied. Corrected grain material is usually called
top grain leather.
CROCK (noun) -The colouring matter that rubs off of poorly
dyed leather.
CROCK (verb) -To transfer colour of rubbing.
CROCKPROOF - Leather, suede or fabric that has been treated
to prevent colour from rubbing off. With suede, this term
also means to treat to prevent shedding or rubbing off of
fibers.
CRUST - Leather which has been tanned but not finished. Such
leathers referred to as being "in the crust."
DEGRAINED LEATHER - Leather from which the grain has been
removed after tanning, by splitting, abrading or other
process.
DOUBLE BUTT SUEDE - A term sometimes used to mean center cut
suede.
DRAWN GRAIN - Shrunken, shrivelled, or wrinkled grain
surface of leather.
DRUM DYING - The application of dye stuffs to leather by the
immersion of the leather in a drum that is tumbled. This
process allows full dye penetration into the fiber.
EMBOSSED LEATHER - Usually corrected grain, in which a
pattern is applied by extreme pressure in a press to give a
unique design or imitation of full grain characteristics.
Sometimes leathers are embossed to make them appear to be
another leather, such as embossing an alligator pattern into
cowhide.
EMBOSSED, FANCY - A fancy or geometric pattern is impressed
into the leather.
FAT WRINKLE - Wrinkles in the grain of leather caused by fat
deposits in the animal that create beauty in the leather.
Fat wrinkles are not visible in imitation grain leather.
FINISH - A surface application on the leather to colour,
protect, or mask imperfections. More specifically, all
processes administered to leather after it has been tanned.
FULL GRAIN -The term used for the outside original skin or
hide which has had the hair removed, but otherwise has not
been corrected or altered. Full-grain leather possesses the
genuine original grain of the animal.
FULL HAND - Leather which is full-bodied, such as some
combination tanned leathers and fine vegetable-tanned
upholstery leather. Also called round hand.
GLAZED FINISH - Similar to an aniline finish except that the
leather surface is polished to a high lustre by the action
of glass on steel rollers under tremendous pressure.
GLOVE LEATHER - A term used to describe soft leather used
for gloves, which is normally lambskin. The term is also
used by some to define soft leather.
GRAIN (LEATHER) - The outside of the hide or skin consisting
of the pores, wrinkles and other characteristics which
constitute the natural texture of the leather.
GRAIN CHARACTER -The natural markings on the surface of the
leather.
GRAIN, EMBOSSED - An artificial grain pressed into the
surface of top grain leather from which the original grain
has been removed.
GRAINED LEATHER - Any leather on which the original natural
grain has been changed or altered by any method, process or
manipulation; also top grain.
GRAIN SUEDED - A process of sueding the grain side of the
skin to achieve a buffed or sueded condition. See "Snuffed".
HAND - A term used in the leather industry to describe the
feel, i.e., softness or fullness of upholstery leather.
HEAVY LEATHER - A somewhat indefinite term, generally
understood to include vegetable-tanned sole, belting, strap
and mechanical leathers made from unsplit cattlehides.
IMITATION - A variety of materials which have been made to
resemble genuine leather. The great bulk of these are rubber
or plastic-coated fabrics. It is unlawful to use terms
connoting leather to describe imitations.
LEATHER - An animal skin which has been preserved and
dressed for use.
LEATHERETTE - A manufactured product which imitates leather.
LEATHERY - Tough.
MATTE FINISH - A flat or dull finish.
MINERAL TANNED - Leather which has been tanned by any of
several mineral substances, notably the salts of chromium,
aluminium, and zirconium.
NAKED LEATHER - A leather with no surface, impregnated
treatment of finish other than dye matter which might mask
or alter the natural state of the leather.
NATURAL GRAIN - A leather which retains the full original
grain.
NUBUCK - A brushed, grain-sueded leather.
OAK TANNAGE - Originally, the tannage leather occurred
almost entirely with oak bark, later the term applied to
tannage with a blend containing oak tannin. Now it is
loosely applied to any tannage of leather with vegetable
extracts.
OIL TANNED - Leather tanned with certain fish oils. Produces
a very soft, pliable leather such as chamois.
PATENT LEATHER - Leather with a glossy impermeable finish
produced by successive coats of drying oils, varnish, or
synthetic resins.
PATINA - A surface appearance of something grown beautiful,
especially with age or use; an appearance or aura that is
derived from association, habit, or established character.
PERFORATED - In leather, the process of die cutting small
holes to form a pattern. The holes can vary in size, density
and pattern.
PIGMENTED - A process of colouring and coating in the
leather surface with coloured pigments dispersed in
film-forming chemicals called binders which can be
tailor-made to produce surfaces that are highly resistant to
wear, fading, etc. Leather that has been sprayed with a
pigmented, opaque finish. This is usually done to cover
imperfections in leather
PLATING, PLATED LEATHER - Pressing leather with a heated
metal plate under high pressure. Most furniture leather is
usually sanded, pigmented and plated to cover imperfections.
PRODUCTION RUN - Cheaper, ungraded leather sold to
manufacturers for use on furniture.
RECONSTITUTED LEATHER - Material composed of collagen fibers
obtained from macerated hide pieces, which have been
constructed into a fibrous mat.
RETAN - A modifying secondary tannage applied after
intermediate operations following the primary tanning.
ROUND HAND - A full-handed leather, usually slightly swelled
as with vegetable tanning.
SADDLE LEATHER - Vegetable-tanned cattlehide leather for
harnesses and saddles, usually of a natural tan shade and
rather flexible.
SHRUNKEN GRAIN LEATHER - A full, natural-grain leather which
is shrunken to enlarge and enhance the grain of the leather.
SHOULDER LEATHER - The thickest part of the hide from the
shoulder area of the cow.
SIDE-Half a hide cut along the backbone.
SIDE LEATHER - Grain leather which has been cut in half,
forming two "sides" in order to better accommodate tannery
equipment.
SKIVE - To shave, slice or divide, to peel into a thin
layer.
SNUFFED - The grain surface is abraded with brushes, emery
wheel or sandpaper. Leather is snuffed for the purpose of
removing defective grain, or for sueding the surface of the
leather.
SPLIT LEATHER (SPLIT) - Skin sliced in layers to give
uniform thickness to the piece (grainside). Split leather
(inside) is trimmed and finished as suede. Cheap leathers
are sometimes pigmented splits with embossed imitation
grain.
SPLITTING - Cutting leather into two or more layers, or
cutting leather into two sides preparatory to tanning.
SPREAD - The size of a skin measured by machine in square
feet.
STRAP LEATHER - Heavyweight vegetable-tanned leather used
for industrial purposes, or to support seats and backs on
certain types of seating.
SUEDE-Leathers that are finished by buffing the flesh side
(opposite the grain side) to produce a nap. Term refers to
the napping process, and is unrelated to the type of skin
used. See "Split Leather".
SUEDING - The process of raising fibers on the grain side of
a hide or skin to give a velvet nap effect. This is
generally called "nubuck" or "grain suede."
TABLE DYEING - The application of dyestuff to leather with a
brush, the leather being laid on a table. Also called brush
colouring.
TABLE RUN - Leathers which are not graded. See "Production
Run".
TANNIN - Any various solvents; astringent substances of
plant origin used in tanning leather.
TOP GRAIN - The term intended to define genuine grain
leather, as opposed to split leather which has been
pigmented and embossed with a new grain. In reality,
top-grain leather usually has had the original grain removed
and an imitation grain embossed into the surface.
TRIM - The removal of parts of a skin or hide not suitable
for making leather, such as portions on the outer edges.
UNFINISHED LEATHER - Normally defines aniline-dyed, naked
leathers with no additional application intended to finish,
colour or treat in a way that would alter the natural
characteristics of the leather.
UPHOLSTERY LEATHER - A general term for leather processed
for use in furniture, automobiles, and airplanes.
VAT DYEING - An older method of dyeing leather sometimes
confused with drum dyeing.
VEAL CALFSKIN - An upholstery leather skin averaging 30
square feet of premier quality.
VEGETABLE TANNING - The conversion of rawhide into leather
with a greater body and firmness than the more general
method of chromium tanning.
WEIGHT - The weight of leather is measured in ounces per
square foot.
WICK - To absorb and dissipate moisture and heat through the
fiber structure of the leather.
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